4:20 surf check - Morro Bay

Surf Check / Rosas

Surf Check - Pismo Beach 4pm 5/23/7 - Looks like a nice left south of the pier, a little right insider north. Got some waves earlier at Santa Rosas. Semi glassy peaks, some right outsiders, some left kind peelers. Few heads out, mellow vibe, worked little, got a little buzz on, and longboarded the cold pacific blue Cambria waves. Didn't surf Pismo here, but just taking a look, thanks Surfline.

Another shot of Pismo, crumbly mushy lines north of the Pier:

lunar kind

The drive up Hwy1 checking the surf from Morro Bay to Carmel, it is a calm glassy warm sunshiney trip. Small and nothing really from Morro to Moonstone Beach, it looks that Exotics shows something resembling a left, maybe another story in the water, the swell has died down, making the few breaks in Big Sur that work mellow surfable.

Two paddle surfers ride Sand Dollar, they're catching them way on the outside, looks like a good bet for this break, need a big board and some speed to get into these rollers. A few heads are out at Willow, but the peaks along the Point Sur lighthouse look fun, if I had a whole day to devote to getting out there, it was the time to charge.

The next morning, conditions feel the same, I'm in Carmel, and take a peak at the surf in PG lunchtime, Asilomar state beach is showing consistency, a right and left breaking off the main outside peak, few heads out. I take care of my work and get out for a lunchtime sesssion, the water is cold, but feels so clean and good, especially after warm SD, the color of the water is transparent, I feel like I'm in Fiji, as I paddle out, boulders are scattered all over the bottom, current is strong, but I make it outside and catch soft and speedy glassy rights and lefts, get a few turns in, and completely see through one left looking through the back of the wave as it bends around me.

Basically it was pretty sick, and that's after some SD kindness. I love NorCal conditions this time of year.

self realizations

Swamis, Sunday morning session, I wait for the tide to pick up a little from the super low early in the AM, drive out through a calm sunny morning, top down in my new ride, a chevy convertible, longboard resting nicely across the passenger to back seats, when I make it into Encinitas, the first people I see, flash me the peace sign, they're having a garage sale, I don't stop, but find a quick parking spot along the roadside, and jam down to the break. The main peak is kinda working, a steady stream of waves coming in, a steady stream of people paddling out, a few coming in. I forgot my wetsuit, left it up in the car, so I decide to trunk it, everyone out is suited up, it's cold, and I forget about it already and paddle into the disneyland waves, one after another, an amusement ride, mainly taking off on kiddy bowl rights surfing way into the inside. A local paddles up to me and says I'm making him cold just looking at me. As soon as I get cold, I paddle in, jam up to the car, grab my suit, eat some almonds while checking the surf again on the beach, it is approaching noon now, wind picking up slightly, more heads out, I paddle out and get a piece of the main bowl every once in awhile, way more fun the kiddie bowls, a real take off, but it takes some work to pick one off from the pack. Lots of inspiring surfers out, mellow vibe, some trunkers are out now that the day is warmer, bikini surfers kind on the eyes, the beach scene also. I surf till I'm tired and recoup again on the beach, then paddle back out for a third run. At this point I don't have the strength really to keep paddling back out, I feel tortured by this dilemma of waves and current, I don't have the patience to paddle all the way to the main point, just keep grabbing waves as I paddle out, longboard heaven.

Cinco de Mayo

Saturday AM session, out early, drive to Tamarack beaches, beautiful sunny AM, some light winds, little chop on the water, scattered peaks, a few left's and rights around the jetty. Waves roll in steadily, I grab a few short rides, I'm surfing 6'4" hybrid fish, really light, wide, and when I go for a set wave, an outsider bowling all around me, I get lots of speed, too much for this little board to handle and I spin out. For the rest of the morning I'm sitting inside the outside pack, going for anything they let through that breaks. They're charging a right on their longboards which a few of them have a little barrel section, and a few outsiders really jack up on the reef. Apparently the bottom is a mix of sandbar and reef, a few boils can be seen. I wish I had a longboard, and paddle in pretty soon. The locals are friendly enough, one sparks up casual conversation with me as I study the waves after the session, asks how it was, mentions the chop. Must be a lot better for them on better days, compared to where I'm localized, it's better enough.