halloween spirit

sunday 10/31 8am, offshore winds, 2-4ft swell, tide rising, conditions kind. a crew meets at dave's casa @ bonitas, studio dr., cayucos, ca. paddle out, josh stoked, runs at the water, tries to surf his board into the surf, trips face down, eats it straight into the sand. darren and patrick are watching, both laugh hard, and follow shortly with a paddle out. there are a handful of surfers just outside of a medium size rock, where waves are peeling, and dudes are getting clean rides. the tide is pulling them south of the rock, eventually patrick / darren / josh + others in crew surf just south of it. patrick is on darren's 9'0", gettting long rides, gliding down the line, crouching low for almost backside barrels, chillin right on long journeys to the shore, some fast take offs. josh is working magic, ballerina smoothness walkin up and down the board, taking off on just about every other wave, elevator drops on the inside, workin turns across the face. darren is on his new board, it is 8"0" fun shape, he gets to his feet, bombs straight down the face, he is stoked, his foot is bruised from his foot rolling over his toes, that doesn't stop him.

trick or treat session

the surf tonight, evening 'trick or treat' session. josh catches some fun ones, patrick a few. the swell has built throughout the day, it is low tide, and the waves are hollow and dumping on shallow sand. patrick takes one down the line and gets thrown down eventually to the bottom, his left hand bracing himself off the sand. another wave pounds him upside down and over again as he tries to duck under just after the wave, one of the largest, crashes down just in front of him. it is dark, eventually drop ins are into blackness, patrick can't see as he tries to drop into a super fast wave and pulls out. josh loses his board a few times and has to cruise inside to the shore and grab it. both fellas are tuned in as they go for the same wave, the wave popped outta nowhere, appearing to have nice shape, both paddle hard, neither gets it. there is a cocktail party on one of the oceanfront homes rooftop. patrick is aware of their presence and thinks they must be watching them surf thinking they suck or that they're crazy. patrick wants to perform and put on a good show, the waves he takes off on however his balance is lost, he is surfing a board two feet shorter than the a.m. session logger, it is affecting him more than he imagined. overall, this was not the session the dudes were hoping for, but it's most always good to paddle out.