weirdos

Just after waking, I check the still shots of Pismo Beach and Morro Bay, Pismo looks glassy with small peaks, Morro a little sectiony. After getting all my gear together, I drive north Hwy 1 checking the surf along The Strand and through Cayucos. Not much shape, I drive further north and am freshly greeted by small bumps shaping as budding breasts on a girl coming of age, the water is smooth and beautiful, the kind forms hinting at cleavage to arrive soon. After this day dream, I'm still driving north along 1, the crystal blue water is glassy under a blue sky with thin cloud cover high in the sky. Eventually I make it to Santa Rosa Creek, Cambria. There are lines dumping on the shore, they look nice, but not so hot for surfing. Sadly, I leave and head toward work. As I'm driving along Moonstone Beach Dr., I see peeling lefts, two surfers out, ripping it. I've never surfed here before, but have seen the wave break with this consistency through mulitple checks, the conditions are ripe today, and after recently learning the area doesn't prove hazardous, I decide to paddle out. Quickly suiting up, I streak the last clump of wax a few times across my 9'0" before it vanishes. It looks like paradise, an easy channel to paddle into the lineup, glassy conditions, the waves peak and peel. Unfortunately my surfing sucks today, my body feels funny after lifting weights for the first time yesterday in many years, I was only using the bar, but did a full body workout by the bonfire, the orange sky, yellow flames, and cool fog layer making the perfect inspiration for a workout session. Also, the two surf dudes I'm with are ripping it, probably surfed it many times, but I get over this quickly and catch some really fun lefts. The drops are fast as the deepwater wave bowls a little forming a nice peak to glide the line. One after another, session in effect, interrupted by losing my board on the inside twice, and stoked on the set waves. Some porpoises cruise in, and I cruise out. It was fun, and I feel obliged to work, so here we are.

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-peace

cayucos - dave's house - bolinas

High noon session, light wind, blue sunny skies, a right pushing in lining up down the beach, peaking outside. I suit up and paddle for it, there is a rock it is peaking on. Riding the 9'0" it is head high on some of the set waves, a solid swell, the drops, I get a few, don't turn into anything really special, I get lots of speed, try and get in a turn or floater, but I'm off the back of the wave sooner to afford these niceties. Getting over the white wash pouring in, I ride in and head up the coast.

Off to the left, over the town of Cayucos, there are a couple people surfing the pier. Driving up the winding hill of hwy1, the water looks glassy, super mellow. There are some waves at Santa Rosa creek also, a little bowlier, deepwater beachbreak.

The evening blesses studio dr., cayucos with more swell. It looks shapelier than the high noon session, and really want to surf it, but I'm drained from the day. Hope to get it tomorrow.

hotels

raging offshore winds, inside peelers, glassy, freezing cold. my computer just froze as i wrote a most inspired account of the session. i'm not so now, so quickly, fun rights, blue twilight, most beautiful.

wilmar sessions

get a new board today, a 6/4" von zipper fish. xTina gets a wetsuit. we paddle out to Wilmar with our roommate Emery. We are cruising down the road, hwy 1 south, rounding the bend, we clear the foothills and see the ocean blue.

Pismo Beach is small with a few outside lines. Diablo buoy is at about 5ft, the swell energy not directly hitting, so it is typical afternoon chop.

xTina on her new board is out in the water for the first time in awhile. She is wearing a mens suit which fit her well, doesn't quite have the chest support though. The fish she is riding is extremely difficult to catch a wave in the small chop. I hope she will try the longboard soon.

I get a few waves, paddle hard for them, or take of on the inside break, they are knee high, I'm crouched low to stay in, really frustrating, should have brought the longboard.

Darren is riding for the first time in months. He has leg strength from skating, and hoping to work it into his surfing. He gets to his knees, catches a rail and bites. Got a couple ones though he says.

I ride the fish and my dream room. Looking forward to more fish sessions with larger surf. A fun left is the wave of the day, I carve it a little, get down the line a few times, super fun...

peace.

dolphins

Mid week, mid day paddle out to Cable Landing. We check the coast along Hwy1, it is waist to chest high, not so much shape, but surfable. My buddy is hinting at me to cruise to The Park, so we check it out, the buoys @ 8.4ft, swell directly hitting, outside lines forming, chop on the inside, we are looking out at the water from top the sand cliff. After carefully selecting are avenue out, I begin the mission starting off through the swell, it is a battle, but I make it out to sit between rolling 8ft lines, my buddy doesn't make it. I take off once the ocean opens around me, fly down the face chopping across the water, the section explodes behind me and I shoot straight toward the inside. Buddy is still inside, didn't make it out, we leave, I'm bumbed, it was scary but fun, I wanted to get some more rides.