a surf journal

Thursday, March 30, 2006

As Good As It Gets

That's what he said to Niles as he paddled out from the wave of the day. Niles looked up and all around him he saw wave curving steeply, this is it he knew, then paddled a little into it before rushing down the 10 foot face of this rush of water. He almost fell back from the velocity and the unfamiliarity of his borrowed board.