self realizations

Swamis, Sunday morning session, I wait for the tide to pick up a little from the super low early in the AM, drive out through a calm sunny morning, top down in my new ride, a chevy convertible, longboard resting nicely across the passenger to back seats, when I make it into Encinitas, the first people I see, flash me the peace sign, they're having a garage sale, I don't stop, but find a quick parking spot along the roadside, and jam down to the break. The main peak is kinda working, a steady stream of waves coming in, a steady stream of people paddling out, a few coming in. I forgot my wetsuit, left it up in the car, so I decide to trunk it, everyone out is suited up, it's cold, and I forget about it already and paddle into the disneyland waves, one after another, an amusement ride, mainly taking off on kiddy bowl rights surfing way into the inside. A local paddles up to me and says I'm making him cold just looking at me. As soon as I get cold, I paddle in, jam up to the car, grab my suit, eat some almonds while checking the surf again on the beach, it is approaching noon now, wind picking up slightly, more heads out, I paddle out and get a piece of the main bowl every once in awhile, way more fun the kiddie bowls, a real take off, but it takes some work to pick one off from the pack. Lots of inspiring surfers out, mellow vibe, some trunkers are out now that the day is warmer, bikini surfers kind on the eyes, the beach scene also. I surf till I'm tired and recoup again on the beach, then paddle back out for a third run. At this point I don't have the strength really to keep paddling back out, I feel tortured by this dilemma of waves and current, I don't have the patience to paddle all the way to the main point, just keep grabbing waves as I paddle out, longboard heaven.