a surf journal

Saturday, December 17, 2005

sponsor me

There is contest activity around the pier, bikini activity around the volleyball courts, and trolling activity along the beach and pier.

The weather is cold both wind and sea, the sky is clear, the clouds high. Onshore winds pickup throughout the surf session.

I'm chirping, babbling, and uttering other nonsensical verbiage while wading through the ankle high water to the lineup. Not really sure why we tend to shout or vocalize when we get cold, maybe it warms us somehow.

There is a little size for Pismo. Chest to head high sets, overhead freak set wave. A little push to make it zippy. The water is choppy with the offshore winds, but there is a definable left and right shoulder which roll in off the sandbars. I catch them right and left, working my feet to the nose, crouching and zipping down the line clearing the sections, several rides 200yd plus to the shore, and steep closeouts fun for floaters.

Hearing Johnny Cash blaring from the Volcom surf tent on the pier, his voice is as clear and deep as the water. The rebel similarity between surfer and Cash must be appeal. By now the water is a choppy mess, shoulders crumbling down the line, onshore wind stronger, the day colder. I jog out of the water and shower in the cold water which chills my numb torso slightly.

Saturday, December 10, 2005

tide report - central coast ca

Morro Beach, Estero Bay, California
35.4000� N, 120.8667� W

2005-12-09 5:28 AM PST 4.80 feet High Tide
2005-12-09 7:01 AM PST Sunrise
2005-12-09 11:50 AM PST 1.50 feet Low Tide
2005-12-09 4:50 PM PST Sunset
2005-12-09 5:23 PM PST 3.66 feet High Tide
2005-12-09 11:22 PM PST 0.86 feet Low Tide
2005-12-10 6:06 AM PST 5.25 feet High Tide
2005-12-10 7:01 AM PST Sunrise
2005-12-10 12:52 PM PST 0.73 feet Low Tide
2005-12-10 4:50 PM PST Sunset
2005-12-10 6:43 PM PST 3.55 feet High Tide
2005-12-11 12:08 AM PST 1.23 feet Low Tide
2005-12-11 6:43 AM PST 5.63 feet High Tide
2005-12-11 7:02 AM PST Sunrise
2005-12-11 1:44 PM PST 0.04 feet Low Tide
2005-12-11 4:51 PM PST Sunset
2005-12-11 7:51 PM PST 3.53 feet High Tide
2005-12-12 12:50 AM PST 1.57 feet Low Tide
2005-12-12 7:03 AM PST Sunrise
2005-12-12 7:18 AM PST 5.92 feet High Tide
2005-12-12 2:29 PM PST -0.47 feet Low Tide
2005-12-12 4:51 PM PST Sunset
2005-12-12 8:49 PM PST 3.54 feet High Tide
2005-12-13 1:30 AM PST 1.85 feet Low Tide

Friday, December 09, 2005

weirdos, cambria, moonstone beach drive

Diablo Canyon buoy @ 10:00am, 267degrees @ 3.9ft

December chilly, offshore winds, smaller surf, but clean and conistent rights and lefts. I catch many waves zipping right and left on the longboard. Staying close to the wave looking for barrel sections, walking to the nose and back, carving the face over and over. Not too crowded, hot tub essential to warm up, snap a few photos at sundown of the last groms taking the scraps.

Diablo Canyon buoy @ 5:32pm, 272degrees @ 3.6ft

Wednesday, December 07, 2005

weirdos

Wed a.m. 259degree 3.9ft buoy 12/14sec period according to Diablo. A-beach looks walled up with some size, I drive to Moonstone Beach and surf weirdos. First wave is a zipping left that breaks clean to the beach. Set waves close out and have a bit of size. Fun session, not crowded. Out of water @ 1:15pm buoy now @ 269degree 4.1ft 14sec period.