a surf journal

Tuesday, May 08, 2007

Cinco de Mayo

Saturday AM session, out early, drive to Tamarack beaches, beautiful sunny AM, some light winds, little chop on the water, scattered peaks, a few left's and rights around the jetty. Waves roll in steadily, I grab a few short rides, I'm surfing 6'4" hybrid fish, really light, wide, and when I go for a set wave, an outsider bowling all around me, I get lots of speed, too much for this little board to handle and I spin out. For the rest of the morning I'm sitting inside the outside pack, going for anything they let through that breaks. They're charging a right on their longboards which a few of them have a little barrel section, and a few outsiders really jack up on the reef. Apparently the bottom is a mix of sandbar and reef, a few boils can be seen. I wish I had a longboard, and paddle in pretty soon. The locals are friendly enough, one sparks up casual conversation with me as I study the waves after the session, asks how it was, mentions the chop. Must be a lot better for them on better days, compared to where I'm localized, it's better enough.

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