Cinco de Mayo
Saturday AM session, out early, drive to Tamarack beaches, beautiful sunny AM, some light winds, little chop on the water, scattered peaks, a few left's and rights around the jetty. Waves roll in steadily, I grab a few short rides, I'm surfing 6'4" hybrid fish, really light, wide, and when I go for a set wave, an outsider bowling all around me, I get lots of speed, too much for this little board to handle and I spin out. For the rest of the morning I'm sitting inside the outside pack, going for anything they let through that breaks. They're charging a right on their longboards which a few of them have a little barrel section, and a few outsiders really jack up on the reef. Apparently the bottom is a mix of sandbar and reef, a few boils can be seen. I wish I had a longboard, and paddle in pretty soon. The locals are friendly enough, one sparks up casual conversation with me as I study the waves after the session, asks how it was, mentions the chop. Must be a lot better for them on better days, compared to where I'm localized, it's better enough.


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