wilmar
I paddle out with buddy Darren after convincing him to catch the last 40min of daylight catching waves in the chilly Pacific Spring waters of Pismo Beach area. After a short jog down to the beach, we are standing in front of a rip to the left with a few longboarders out catching some right and left sections, and we find ourselves with a slight peak to ourselves a little south. It is not very good, mostly dropping in to closeout crumbling 2-4 ft waves. I do catch a left, walk up the board a little, crouch down, hold a line, and go for speed. I fail at pulling off a solid bottom turn into a floater and just pull the rail and clumisly labor the log off the top of the wave.
Darren is inspired with a wave he catches, he sold me his board tonight, I'm happy to have it. It is really dark and he looks like a sea mammal. A dolphin cruises up the beach and hangs out a little nearby, a friendly dark fin poking out of the evening sea shadows, it gives Darren a slight scare.
Darren is inspired with a wave he catches, he sold me his board tonight, I'm happy to have it. It is really dark and he looks like a sea mammal. A dolphin cruises up the beach and hangs out a little nearby, a friendly dark fin poking out of the evening sea shadows, it gives Darren a slight scare.

