a surf journal

Thursday, April 07, 2005

wilmar

I paddle out with buddy Darren after convincing him to catch the last 40min of daylight catching waves in the chilly Pacific Spring waters of Pismo Beach area. After a short jog down to the beach, we are standing in front of a rip to the left with a few longboarders out catching some right and left sections, and we find ourselves with a slight peak to ourselves a little south. It is not very good, mostly dropping in to closeout crumbling 2-4 ft waves. I do catch a left, walk up the board a little, crouch down, hold a line, and go for speed. I fail at pulling off a solid bottom turn into a floater and just pull the rail and clumisly labor the log off the top of the wave.

Darren is inspired with a wave he catches, he sold me his board tonight, I'm happy to have it. It is really dark and he looks like a sea mammal. A dolphin cruises up the beach and hangs out a little nearby, a friendly dark fin poking out of the evening sea shadows, it gives Darren a slight scare.

santa rosa creek

I take about four paddles out into the lineup, it is small, I'm the only surfer, and I'm looking to get a couple waves before the wind completely kills it. I've recently accquired a 9'0" longboard, last night actually, so I'm eager to surf it.

I keep gettting wave after wave of 2-4 ft clean lefts and rights, short rides, really fun. The water is so cold my feet feel like shooting ice spindles up from the toes to the heel, it is beautiful and sunny. A couple hugs on the beach, a lady sits on the bench, this is surfing Cambria mellow style.

Monday, April 04, 2005

south jetty

Glassy Friday evening session at Morro Bay, we paddle across the harbor entrance, and walk along the desolate sunny beach. Waves are breaking inside the bay, 6-inch peelers, super kind lefts. We get across the jetty, climbing across with boards under arm, and jump down onto the sandy beach. There are two surfers out already, peaks are scattered on the inside with large set waves rolling in and breaking outside and closing out. A lady sits comforatbly in her lotus pose enjoying the golden afternoon, I take a couple stretches and paddle out behind Josh with the rip tide alongside the jetty rocks.

In the lineup, the waves break against the strong outgoing rip and wall up creating a nice powerful breaking face at takeoff, and either closeout shortly, or reform on the inside. I get a couple fun ones, then Josh eventually pulls a muscle. Overall a kind session, some long waits for waves, but some shapely sets.

aloha-

current conditions:

2005-04-04  1:32 AM PDT   2.06 feet  Low Tide
2005-04-04 6:45 AM PDT Sunrise
2005-04-04 7:23 AM PDT 4.90 feet High Tide
2005-04-04 2:25 PM PDT -0.75 feet Low Tide
2005-04-04 7:27 PM PDT Sunset
2005-04-04 9:01 PM PDT 4.18 feet High Tide
2005-04-05 2:26 AM PDT 1.36 feet Low Tide
2005-04-05 6:44 AM PDT Sunrise
2005-04-05 8:21 AM PDT 5.10 feet High Tide
2005-04-05 3:02 PM PDT -0.74 feet Low Tide
2005-04-05 7:28 PM PDT Sunset
2005-04-05 9:27 PM PDT 4.60 feet High Tide
2005-04-06 3:12 AM PDT 0.69 feet Low Tide
2005-04-06 6:42 AM PDT Sunrise
2005-04-06 9:11 AM PDT 5.13 feet High Tide
2005-04-06 3:36 PM PDT -0.56 feet Low Tide
2005-04-06 7:29 PM PDT Sunset
2005-04-06 9:54 PM PDT 4.98 feet High Tide
2005-04-07 3:55 AM PDT 0.13 feet Low Tide
2005-04-07 6:41 AM PDT Sunrise
2005-04-07 9:58 AM PDT 5.00 feet High Tide
2005-04-07 4:08 PM PDT -0.24 feet Low Tide
2005-04-07 7:30 PM PDT Sunset
2005-04-07 10:22 PM PDT 5.27 feet High Tide
2005-04-08 4:38 AM PDT -0.28 feet Low Tide

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