a surf journal

Wednesday, May 09, 2007

lunar kind

The drive up Hwy1 checking the surf from Morro Bay to Carmel, it is a calm glassy warm sunshiney trip. Small and nothing really from Morro to Moonstone Beach, it looks that Exotics shows something resembling a left, maybe another story in the water, the swell has died down, making the few breaks in Big Sur that work mellow surfable.

Two paddle surfers ride Sand Dollar, they're catching them way on the outside, looks like a good bet for this break, need a big board and some speed to get into these rollers. A few heads are out at Willow, but the peaks along the Point Sur lighthouse look fun, if I had a whole day to devote to getting out there, it was the time to charge.

The next morning, conditions feel the same, I'm in Carmel, and take a peak at the surf in PG lunchtime, Asilomar state beach is showing consistency, a right and left breaking off the main outside peak, few heads out. I take care of my work and get out for a lunchtime sesssion, the water is cold, but feels so clean and good, especially after warm SD, the color of the water is transparent, I feel like I'm in Fiji, as I paddle out, boulders are scattered all over the bottom, current is strong, but I make it outside and catch soft and speedy glassy rights and lefts, get a few turns in, and completely see through one left looking through the back of the wave as it bends around me.

Basically it was pretty sick, and that's after some SD kindness. I love NorCal conditions this time of year.

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