a surf journal

Sunday, November 20, 2005

pismo sunday

Out in the water about 8:30 a.m. It is Sunday and the beach is packed, loads of surfers, loads of walkers, loads of volley ballers.

I paddle to the same spot as yesterday. A rip current is making a left and right work off the sandbar when the wave doesn't close out. Find a shoulder and you're in luck, it is fairly hollow, with a little power.

There are a couple long boarders snaggin rides right and left. I join the party and cruise. Walkin toward the nose, I'm not quite there yet, but try. Otherwise just carving the face and picking up speed.

Saturday, November 19, 2005

pismo high noon

Journey to Pismo Beach, CA. 8 miles south, a quick stop for ridable waves. Saturday session on the plate, ready to dish out and check it. 'Phoenicia' droppin the micro beat, TV cabninet stereo chuggin. The late morning sunshine baking through the blinds, I prepare the ride.

It is sunny clear and glassy at the beach making Saturday quite popular. A few surfers are on a shifty left not making the line. I decide to paddle out here and drift toward the pier.

Mostly close outs across the beach, catch a corner and find a great ride. I get a couple of these, and cruise the lines.

Tuesday, November 15, 2005

Moonstoned

Low tide peak, I'm paddlin out for a quick grab of some tasty rights. A few heads out, conistent peaks, the sand has wedged up against the rocks nicely and a rip current both combine to make it work.

The sunset is glowing all around the beach, no wind, everyone strolling along the boardwalk, I'm longboarding. All is smooth sailin, take off glides, a few turns, mostly cruisin down the line for speed making the sections. I get jacked by the lip once it crashes down on me and the board sending us both flying, I'm expecting a fin jab somewhere in the body, but we both make it out alright. A couple more waves, it's slowing down, a last wave in, now it's a session.

Sunday, November 13, 2005

Spyglass Beauties

It's been over a year since I've got any Spyglass. Today is the day after the weekend swell peak Saturday, high noon Sunday, I arrive at Spyglass park with girlfriend and longboard. Sewers is working better than the right, but the right getting longer rides, I opt for it and paddle out.

The day I bring my girlfriend is the day four surf hotties decide to suit up next to me. She notices me notice them, it's OK, not a big deal, just typical. I paddle out into the lineup, nice easy paddle, and after a minute or two, watch all the guys in the lineup check the wahine swarm.

I get lots of waves suprisingly, the crowd is mellow. One longboarder is ripping it, I share waves with him and a few others. A stony bloke takes off left into me on my longboard right drop, I manage to pull out, there was no left.

With lots of speed, I rip through the lineup on an outside creeper. It peels quickly steep and nice through the lineup into the inside. A gentleman comments undecipherably how beautiful the lip is on the wave and environment outside or something as I paddle back out. I smile and respond as best I can to the garble I picked up.

A scene of beauty, the wave of the day, slowly rising and bending up arched all perfectly, and the hottie of the hotties is positioned inside closer to the shoulder, wipes out already, I let her go for it, oh well.

For the rest of the session, I see nothing that compares to that wave, taking a few rides inside, eventually cruising in to walk along the jagged reef and rocks to the beach barefoot. No scathes, OK, back in the lot, the chix are redressing next to my car, my girlfriend and I quickly scoot away.

Sunday, November 06, 2005

south county

Fun surf session 2x Shell Silver Shoals to Pismo Wilmar St.