memorial daze session

300degree swell @ 2.8ft, 8seconds combined with a .9 south. junky, lots of whitewash, some bowling peaks, fun sections,

lots of headz out for the memorial daze session, ice cream headaches, inside wash, fast sections. we surf a peak to ourselves mostly, enough surf along beach so people not an issue.

i almost give up on the inside it is pushing hard in with the tide droping, but i keep paddling eventually making it outside to hang for a bit before grabbing my last wave, a steep fast outside takeoff into a reform ledge through the inside, i make all the sections blazing, fun ride. .

paddling in is fun. i crash land on the inside smoothly, board fins eventually catching on the sand, throwing me forward. running along the beach, i see two buddies on top the hill. they want me to paddle out, but i am tired, it seems to have cleaned up a bit, wind not an issue, tempting, i'm still thinking about it,

jahloha.
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pico treats

Most of the coast looks chopped from Morro Strand through Cayucos. I am driving toward Cambria, heading to work, longboard in the Rodeo, and as I get to Moonstone Beach Dr., it is clean and small at Santa Rosa Creek, with little inside peelers. I check into work and shortly take off north to San Simeon, arriving atop the drive at Pico Creek, I cruise down the hill eyeing the clean inside peaks. It is mostly inside shore crumble, and sets are pushing a clean knee / waist high left through which calls me to paddle out. I suit up and climb down the beach to the grey sandy colored beach speckled with moonstones. After a couple stretches, I walk through ankle high water, and take a couple strokes to make it to the 'lineup'. I'm sitting in shoulder high water, I can see the flora floating, and the sandy bottom dotted with sea grass and small rocks. It is an overcast mid morning, a slight wind, making glassy conditions.

I begin to paddle around making my way to the left, it is breaking fast onto the shore, and a quick drop down the line is required to make it. I get a couple quick ones, really short rides into ankle/knee high depths, nothing to get excited about. I probably look more like an overgrown kid joyously romping through amazingly tiny surf, paddling really hard to make a wave, getting the drop, jumping off into thee shallows, again, and again.

After awhile I am catching the larger waves which don't close out catching both speedy rights and lefts with a little room to carve, but mostly zapping across glassy faces. The water is razor sharp cold, I'm in a 3/2 no booties, so I'm feeling it, eventually I get used to it and it is refreshing.

A few people sit and watch me from the bark benches lined across the grassy bluff in front of the motels. I paddle in, find some trash along the trail to take away with me to the car. A peaceful session,

Jahloha.

-melvin, patty

joe montana de oro

Get a call from buddy who has been checkin buoys all day working behind the counter at the computer store. It is about 5ft with 10sec period, we decide to head toward the most directly exposed spot, and as we pull into view of the waves, lines are peeling in, no wind, a little fog before the sundown. A littlie irie, we are stoked for thee possibilities, running toward the beach, we are coming from the only car in sight, solitude found.

Atop the bluff, there are many surfers north, and peeling rights in front of us, no one out. We get into the water easily, and get lucky when the peak lurges out directly toward you, taking off onto steep drops, the wave backs off, and glassy green walls pave the way inside. After a couple quick rides, I'm paddling out after a fun one, and I hear yelping from the inside. Buddy just got barreled he says, complete covered up, did nothing to make it. I'm stoked for him, especially since I'm not used to yelping, and I was puzzled thinking maybe he's in danger, relieved he's ok.

The most spectacular experience comes from our mammalian friends. There are about 20 or so dolphins everywhere surrounding us, they are jumping in groups of one, two, and three, trolling about leisurely, racing down the wave faces, catching flipping air, and getting their flirt on, basically showing off their water play time skills. A kodak moment catches me as I look at Buddy and see three dolphins mid air 5 feet behind him. The water is extremely clear, mystical jungle sea green water, set against crystal ball blue skies, and golden amber sand dunes dropping down to the shore. It is surreal, a dream session, I'm awake.

My awareness of self heightened, after struggling to paddle through a set, getting three or so on the head right in impact zone sending me into underwater cartwheels holding my board, I'm twisting and turning in amazingly unique positions. As I am slowly paddling out through the inside, I realize all I am is a spine with a skull attached, some limbs there from dangling, I feel like a fish, my skeleton revealed, it is delicate, and I am small.

Last wave in, we both get on. I catch a speedy pocket from the take off, Buddy makin some noise, so I don't carve back to hard, he didn't make the section, it's all me. The waves are still nice as we reluctantly walk back to society, to the car. I'm thinkin next time...

peace,

jahloha.