wilmar sessions

get a new board today, a 6/4" von zipper fish. xTina gets a wetsuit. we paddle out to Wilmar with our roommate Emery. We are cruising down the road, hwy 1 south, rounding the bend, we clear the foothills and see the ocean blue.

Pismo Beach is small with a few outside lines. Diablo buoy is at about 5ft, the swell energy not directly hitting, so it is typical afternoon chop.

xTina on her new board is out in the water for the first time in awhile. She is wearing a mens suit which fit her well, doesn't quite have the chest support though. The fish she is riding is extremely difficult to catch a wave in the small chop. I hope she will try the longboard soon.

I get a few waves, paddle hard for them, or take of on the inside break, they are knee high, I'm crouched low to stay in, really frustrating, should have brought the longboard.

Darren is riding for the first time in months. He has leg strength from skating, and hoping to work it into his surfing. He gets to his knees, catches a rail and bites. Got a couple ones though he says.

I ride the fish and my dream room. Looking forward to more fish sessions with larger surf. A fun left is the wave of the day, I carve it a little, get down the line a few times, super fun...

peace.