weirdos

Just after waking, I check the still shots of Pismo Beach and Morro Bay, Pismo looks glassy with small peaks, Morro a little sectiony. After getting all my gear together, I drive north Hwy 1 checking the surf along The Strand and through Cayucos. Not much shape, I drive further north and am freshly greeted by small bumps shaping as budding breasts on a girl coming of age, the water is smooth and beautiful, the kind forms hinting at cleavage to arrive soon. After this day dream, I'm still driving north along 1, the crystal blue water is glassy under a blue sky with thin cloud cover high in the sky. Eventually I make it to Santa Rosa Creek, Cambria. There are lines dumping on the shore, they look nice, but not so hot for surfing. Sadly, I leave and head toward work. As I'm driving along Moonstone Beach Dr., I see peeling lefts, two surfers out, ripping it. I've never surfed here before, but have seen the wave break with this consistency through mulitple checks, the conditions are ripe today, and after recently learning the area doesn't prove hazardous, I decide to paddle out. Quickly suiting up, I streak the last clump of wax a few times across my 9'0" before it vanishes. It looks like paradise, an easy channel to paddle into the lineup, glassy conditions, the waves peak and peel. Unfortunately my surfing sucks today, my body feels funny after lifting weights for the first time yesterday in many years, I was only using the bar, but did a full body workout by the bonfire, the orange sky, yellow flames, and cool fog layer making the perfect inspiration for a workout session. Also, the two surf dudes I'm with are ripping it, probably surfed it many times, but I get over this quickly and catch some really fun lefts. The drops are fast as the deepwater wave bowls a little forming a nice peak to glide the line. One after another, session in effect, interrupted by losing my board on the inside twice, and stoked on the set waves. Some porpoises cruise in, and I cruise out. It was fun, and I feel obliged to work, so here we are.

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-peace