a surf journal

Tuesday, June 14, 2005

cayucos - dave's house - bolinas

High noon session, light wind, blue sunny skies, a right pushing in lining up down the beach, peaking outside. I suit up and paddle for it, there is a rock it is peaking on. Riding the 9'0" it is head high on some of the set waves, a solid swell, the drops, I get a few, don't turn into anything really special, I get lots of speed, try and get in a turn or floater, but I'm off the back of the wave sooner to afford these niceties. Getting over the white wash pouring in, I ride in and head up the coast.

Off to the left, over the town of Cayucos, there are a couple people surfing the pier. Driving up the winding hill of hwy1, the water looks glassy, super mellow. There are some waves at Santa Rosa creek also, a little bowlier, deepwater beachbreak.

The evening blesses studio dr., cayucos with more swell. It looks shapelier than the high noon session, and really want to surf it, but I'm drained from the day. Hope to get it tomorrow.

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