joe montana de oro
Get a call from buddy who has been checkin buoys all day working behind the counter at the computer store. It is about 5ft with 10sec period, we decide to head toward the most directly exposed spot, and as we pull into view of the waves, lines are peeling in, no wind, a little fog before the sundown. A littlie irie, we are stoked for thee possibilities, running toward the beach, we are coming from the only car in sight, solitude found.
Atop the bluff, there are many surfers north, and peeling rights in front of us, no one out. We get into the water easily, and get lucky when the peak lurges out directly toward you, taking off onto steep drops, the wave backs off, and glassy green walls pave the way inside. After a couple quick rides, I'm paddling out after a fun one, and I hear yelping from the inside. Buddy just got barreled he says, complete covered up, did nothing to make it. I'm stoked for him, especially since I'm not used to yelping, and I was puzzled thinking maybe he's in danger, relieved he's ok.
The most spectacular experience comes from our mammalian friends. There are about 20 or so dolphins everywhere surrounding us, they are jumping in groups of one, two, and three, trolling about leisurely, racing down the wave faces, catching flipping air, and getting their flirt on, basically showing off their water play time skills. A kodak moment catches me as I look at Buddy and see three dolphins mid air 5 feet behind him. The water is extremely clear, mystical jungle sea green water, set against crystal ball blue skies, and golden amber sand dunes dropping down to the shore. It is surreal, a dream session, I'm awake.
My awareness of self heightened, after struggling to paddle through a set, getting three or so on the head right in impact zone sending me into underwater cartwheels holding my board, I'm twisting and turning in amazingly unique positions. As I am slowly paddling out through the inside, I realize all I am is a spine with a skull attached, some limbs there from dangling, I feel like a fish, my skeleton revealed, it is delicate, and I am small.
Last wave in, we both get on. I catch a speedy pocket from the take off, Buddy makin some noise, so I don't carve back to hard, he didn't make the section, it's all me. The waves are still nice as we reluctantly walk back to society, to the car. I'm thinkin next time...
peace,
jahloha.
Atop the bluff, there are many surfers north, and peeling rights in front of us, no one out. We get into the water easily, and get lucky when the peak lurges out directly toward you, taking off onto steep drops, the wave backs off, and glassy green walls pave the way inside. After a couple quick rides, I'm paddling out after a fun one, and I hear yelping from the inside. Buddy just got barreled he says, complete covered up, did nothing to make it. I'm stoked for him, especially since I'm not used to yelping, and I was puzzled thinking maybe he's in danger, relieved he's ok.
The most spectacular experience comes from our mammalian friends. There are about 20 or so dolphins everywhere surrounding us, they are jumping in groups of one, two, and three, trolling about leisurely, racing down the wave faces, catching flipping air, and getting their flirt on, basically showing off their water play time skills. A kodak moment catches me as I look at Buddy and see three dolphins mid air 5 feet behind him. The water is extremely clear, mystical jungle sea green water, set against crystal ball blue skies, and golden amber sand dunes dropping down to the shore. It is surreal, a dream session, I'm awake.
My awareness of self heightened, after struggling to paddle through a set, getting three or so on the head right in impact zone sending me into underwater cartwheels holding my board, I'm twisting and turning in amazingly unique positions. As I am slowly paddling out through the inside, I realize all I am is a spine with a skull attached, some limbs there from dangling, I feel like a fish, my skeleton revealed, it is delicate, and I am small.
Last wave in, we both get on. I catch a speedy pocket from the take off, Buddy makin some noise, so I don't carve back to hard, he didn't make the section, it's all me. The waves are still nice as we reluctantly walk back to society, to the car. I'm thinkin next time...
peace,
jahloha.
posted by Dipshaw at
21:15
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home