pico treats
Most of the coast looks chopped from Morro Strand through Cayucos. I am driving toward Cambria, heading to work, longboard in the Rodeo, and as I get to Moonstone Beach Dr., it is clean and small at Santa Rosa Creek, with little inside peelers. I check into work and shortly take off north to San Simeon, arriving atop the drive at Pico Creek, I cruise down the hill eyeing the clean inside peaks. It is mostly inside shore crumble, and sets are pushing a clean knee / waist high left through which calls me to paddle out. I suit up and climb down the beach to the grey sandy colored beach speckled with moonstones. After a couple stretches, I walk through ankle high water, and take a couple strokes to make it to the 'lineup'. I'm sitting in shoulder high water, I can see the flora floating, and the sandy bottom dotted with sea grass and small rocks. It is an overcast mid morning, a slight wind, making glassy conditions.
I begin to paddle around making my way to the left, it is breaking fast onto the shore, and a quick drop down the line is required to make it. I get a couple quick ones, really short rides into ankle/knee high depths, nothing to get excited about. I probably look more like an overgrown kid joyously romping through amazingly tiny surf, paddling really hard to make a wave, getting the drop, jumping off into thee shallows, again, and again.
After awhile I am catching the larger waves which don't close out catching both speedy rights and lefts with a little room to carve, but mostly zapping across glassy faces. The water is razor sharp cold, I'm in a 3/2 no booties, so I'm feeling it, eventually I get used to it and it is refreshing.
A few people sit and watch me from the bark benches lined across the grassy bluff in front of the motels. I paddle in, find some trash along the trail to take away with me to the car. A peaceful session,
Jahloha.
-melvin, patty
I begin to paddle around making my way to the left, it is breaking fast onto the shore, and a quick drop down the line is required to make it. I get a couple quick ones, really short rides into ankle/knee high depths, nothing to get excited about. I probably look more like an overgrown kid joyously romping through amazingly tiny surf, paddling really hard to make a wave, getting the drop, jumping off into thee shallows, again, and again.
After awhile I am catching the larger waves which don't close out catching both speedy rights and lefts with a little room to carve, but mostly zapping across glassy faces. The water is razor sharp cold, I'm in a 3/2 no booties, so I'm feeling it, eventually I get used to it and it is refreshing.
A few people sit and watch me from the bark benches lined across the grassy bluff in front of the motels. I paddle in, find some trash along the trail to take away with me to the car. A peaceful session,
Jahloha.
-melvin, patty


0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home