memorial daze session

300degree swell @ 2.8ft, 8seconds combined with a .9 south. junky, lots of whitewash, some bowling peaks, fun sections,

lots of headz out for the memorial daze session, ice cream headaches, inside wash, fast sections. we surf a peak to ourselves mostly, enough surf along beach so people not an issue.

i almost give up on the inside it is pushing hard in with the tide droping, but i keep paddling eventually making it outside to hang for a bit before grabbing my last wave, a steep fast outside takeoff into a reform ledge through the inside, i make all the sections blazing, fun ride. .

paddling in is fun. i crash land on the inside smoothly, board fins eventually catching on the sand, throwing me forward. running along the beach, i see two buddies on top the hill. they want me to paddle out, but i am tired, it seems to have cleaned up a bit, wind not an issue, tempting, i'm still thinking about it,

jahloha.
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