a surf journal

Wednesday, December 07, 2005

weirdos

Wed a.m. 259degree 3.9ft buoy 12/14sec period according to Diablo. A-beach looks walled up with some size, I drive to Moonstone Beach and surf weirdos. First wave is a zipping left that breaks clean to the beach. Set waves close out and have a bit of size. Fun session, not crowded. Out of water @ 1:15pm buoy now @ 269degree 4.1ft 14sec period.

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