a surf journal

Friday, December 09, 2005

weirdos, cambria, moonstone beach drive

Diablo Canyon buoy @ 10:00am, 267degrees @ 3.9ft

December chilly, offshore winds, smaller surf, but clean and conistent rights and lefts. I catch many waves zipping right and left on the longboard. Staying close to the wave looking for barrel sections, walking to the nose and back, carving the face over and over. Not too crowded, hot tub essential to warm up, snap a few photos at sundown of the last groms taking the scraps.

Diablo Canyon buoy @ 5:32pm, 272degrees @ 3.6ft

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