a surf journal

Thursday, April 07, 2005

santa rosa creek

I take about four paddles out into the lineup, it is small, I'm the only surfer, and I'm looking to get a couple waves before the wind completely kills it. I've recently accquired a 9'0" longboard, last night actually, so I'm eager to surf it.

I keep gettting wave after wave of 2-4 ft clean lefts and rights, short rides, really fun. The water is so cold my feet feel like shooting ice spindles up from the toes to the heel, it is beautiful and sunny. A couple hugs on the beach, a lady sits on the bench, this is surfing Cambria mellow style.

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