halloween spirit

sunday 10/31 8am, offshore winds, 2-4ft swell, tide rising, conditions kind. a crew meets at dave's casa @ bonitas, studio dr., cayucos, ca. paddle out, josh stoked, runs at the water, tries to surf his board into the surf, trips face down, eats it straight into the sand. darren and patrick are watching, both laugh hard, and follow shortly with a paddle out. there are a handful of surfers just outside of a medium size rock, where waves are peeling, and dudes are getting clean rides. the tide is pulling them south of the rock, eventually patrick / darren / josh + others in crew surf just south of it. patrick is on darren's 9'0", gettting long rides, gliding down the line, crouching low for almost backside barrels, chillin right on long journeys to the shore, some fast take offs. josh is working magic, ballerina smoothness walkin up and down the board, taking off on just about every other wave, elevator drops on the inside, workin turns across the face. darren is on his new board, it is 8"0" fun shape, he gets to his feet, bombs straight down the face, he is stoked, his foot is bruised from his foot rolling over his toes, that doesn't stop him.