laderas ~ no garb

cardiff 5/13/9

Bonies

Last wave of the day, it is moving closer, picking up speed, arching up, and through the turquoise water four fins pop out of the water picking up speed moving down the face of the wave. I see their bodies through the water, dolphins. Paddling hard straight toward them, they all cut right trimming along the wave face, I wheel my board around a foot or two away as they are underneath me and take off with them racing along down the line with my mammalian friends.

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No.& So. Garbage Session

3-4ft : 2ft S @ 16 sec
2-3ft : 3ft WNW @ 6 sec
1-2ft : 2ft W @ 4sec
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Fun surf @ So. Garbage, about 10-20 minutes between sets, 2-5 wave sets, solid chest +, lefts best shape @ So. Garbage, drops steeper @ So. Garbage, long rights and lefts that afforded direction changes. Fun!!! Only a handful of dudes out for the glass off session, often was the lone outsider with my pick of set waves.

Blog Blog Goose

It's been awhile, but just writing the surf down for the day. Closest I got to the ocean was mobily on a john in some restroom closet reading the buoy data, and out on carmel valley road, a half mile offshore, next to the lagoon, and feeling the strong afternoon winds as forecasted.

Buoy's were coming in from the SSW @ 1-2ft, mostly 1 @ 13 sec. Didn't bother check for surf... probably were some funs somewhere.. if u knew where to be.

i didn't.

except online, watching the surf cams.

waimea bay 01.10.08