time out

My wrist is on week four of no surf. I took a fall off the deathbox by glue unit. It happened quickly from moving furniture to landing on my wrist and tailbone, and just from catching the front wheels on a driveway entry grade.

Since then, two days later I managed to eat it again taking most the blow on the other wrist and some on the injured one.

I've realized how important my wrists are to surfing. I can't push up, I can't stand up, I can't surf. It sucks.

I've paddled out twice, the first time wearing a brace, thinking it would support me. Unfortunately not, the first wave it's shooting pain, I can't stand up, not able to push up entirely without it. Lucky the waves are junk, but who cares really, the'yre surfable, stacked up short period, choppy zippers, requring some manuevering to get into, fun especially on a longboard/fish, not suitable for handicapped people like myself.

The second surf session it is glassy sunny Cayucos, mid-morning, waist to shoulder high, low tide hollow, small barrel sections, rising tide push. It would have been nice to surf, all I can do is paddle around, try and stand up, too much pain, not worth it, trying to heal. This is two weeks after last session.

Today it looks foggy up the coast to Morro Bay, down the coast to Pismo Beach. I'm driving to check the surf from SLO to Cambria. Going to then chomp a Medusa's burrito, dakine.