rock it

Paddle out for a rock session, water blue, sky sunny clear beautiful, wind chill, and water chiller. Tides are strong, have to paddle a lot to stay in one place where the waves appear to break, low tide, so it is shallow with strong undertow next to the rock on the inside.

Get one steep drop and hang on to manage my way around the massive white water section to finally get in a turn before falling off into a foot or two of water. The waves are surging in rock style, chunky blobs wobbling in from under the horizon, water formed like staircase shelves, take off on one, drop onto another.

I get a couple other non-noteworthy waves, a few short rides so memorable i can't seem to remember.

Driving up the coast, Cayucos area is slightly offshore, clean and kinda barreling, peaky, and overall kindness. I made the wrong call this morning with my surf spot selection, oh well.

peace.