a surf journal

Sunday, November 21, 2004

Offshore Coldy

It was windy and cold this morning. We check the surf from 24th Street down to Yerba Buena. It is small most everywhere, close-outs ruling the scene. Petri Dish and I paddle out anyway, most fun is had when least expected, or at least it is a good thought.

There is a kayaker who rolls his boat, Josh helps the dude get it all sorted out. I paddle out shortly thereafter. The winds are gusting offshore, and the swell is 2-4 ft., if you are lucky you can catch a shoulder and get a decent ride and/or section. We both do, and have fun with the surf. A couple inspiring rides makes it worth the trip. Josh is surprised I can get into the really small ones on my 7'2", and I watch him drop in to a few, beating the first section, and gliding along a nice ride inside.

We finish it off by cruising up to Dave's at the studio drive house. They are putting on Kill Bill vol.1, it is a first viewing for me, and it was f*cking brutal. If you think you're tough, watch it.

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