bonitas

blue skies, paddle out through the water about 8 a.m., offshore winds, bigger swell than yesterday, close outs with fast drops on ridable shoulders, smooth lines, glassy. a few heads are out, darren, patrick, and aaron and buddies plus a few other randoms, one dude growls at darren for getting in his way, the same dude irritatingly vibes patrick. aaron has the longboard, he goes for the barrel through the closeouts, takes off on some steepers, leans into the face for rail rides, smoothly navigates the logger in a challenging session. darren, after running escaping from home and smooth talking out of a speeding ticket, gets to his feet taking off on some droppers, looking to stay away from the elusive rock action. for patrick, rides of notority, one left, one right. the left, feeling the strong offshore wind creepin under the board, crouching and gaining speed down the line, a quick turn off the top, and then back into the face crouching down the line, another quick turn off the top, and finished off with a further cruise off the back. the right, a thrilling fast takeoff, wave closes out just to the left, the ride goes all the way inside, mostly just picking up speed the whole way staying just ahead of the shoulder and getting around a section. all and all, quite a surf, one of the more fun sessions, clean thrill rides, but a lot of closers.