a surf journal

Thursday, February 24, 2005

yerba buenas

Clear and sunny a.m. session skate and surf @ A-Beach. Two guys out, having trouble getting into the waves, there is size outside, as peaks line up to sea.

I skate downhill surf style with ocean front vistas checkin the surf until it is kind, then i paddle out. A couple fun ones, a lot of close outs, if you find the shoulder and make the drop, you're in there.

The other surfers leave the water when I paddle out, so it is just me, and a bunch of dolphins popping up around, a couple of baby whales floating on their backs and playing, too many fins for my liking, even if they are friendly, I swim away thinking another fin type might like to crash the party.

Last wave in, the drop is fun, fast section, then it pushes flat to reform closing out with shorebreak.

'This morning a WNW(290-300) ground swell is hitting its peak while short-period WSW wind swell is winding down. Most areas are seeing semi-consistent chest to head high plus with with bigger sets. Standouts are hitting several feet overhead on sets. Winds are calm for clean conditions. The tide is:
9:37 am   5.44 ft  high
4:27 pm -0.22 ft low
'(
surfline.com).

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