God damn weirdo wave

That's what he said slamming his fists down into the water in a frenzy after falling off the back of yet another high tide musher failing to catch a ride. Soon though just to double arm paddles and he takes another musher at just the break where it hollows and peels a little to shore.

One takes most all the waves, his automated climb to the board is slow, awkward, lopsided, but assured. Good thing for him it looks steep those drops while laboring to his feet admidst curling faces. He rides and rides and rides, falls off. A sign that it's a good place around to surf cause you know he's probably checked everywhere already when you see him in the water.

Jahloha, surf session. Kind. Feeling the sunshine, the fog grey away. Stoked on one ride and wave positioning, not so on the manuevers except one decent snap. 3/2 wetty, June Cambria, totally do-able, just paddle around, keep moving. Folks sitting on driftwood and walking the boardwalk, some families playing along the beach, high activity.